Belarus iri kushaya hunyanzvi hwekushanya naChagall

Dzimba dzehudiki kana dzekushanda dzevapendi vakawanda vane mukurumbira pasi rose dzava hari dzeuchi dzevashanyi dzakanyatsogadziriswa. Kuwanda kwevashanyi vane nzara yeunyanzvi paMonet's Giverny kwakauya mupfungwa pandakanga ndichidzungaira, ndiri ndoga, ndichipoterera imba yaMarc Chagall. Pasinei nezita rake reFrancophone, Chagall aigara mubungalow pasi penzira yakanyarara, iyo inowanikwa muVitebsk mumhenderekedzo yepasi rose yekushanya kweBelarus.

Chagall akaberekerwa muguta muna 1887, uye akapedza nguva yakawanda yehuduku hwake pa11 Pokrovskaya Street, mukuru wevana vapfumbamwe. Unoregererwa nekusaziva izvi nekuti, munhoroondo, nyika yake haina kuita zvishoma kusimudzira kwaakabva. Pandakagara muBelarus muna 1989, ichiri muSoviet Union, Chagall akanga asingaoneki, zvose asi asiri munhu, kunyange zvazvo asina kumbobvira aita kuti ave muvengi wepamutemo wehurumende. Kunyangwe ongororo ichangoburwa, naAndrew Motion, yeazvino biography yeChagall haina kutaura nezvekwaakabva kuBelarus.

Chagall akanga ari muJudha weHasidic, uyo anogona kutsanangura chikamu cheBelarusian, uye zvisati zvaitika, hurumende yeSoviet inopesana naye. Mushure mekumukira kweRussia akava mutungamiriri weArt Academy muVitebsk, asi pasina nguva akaenda kuFrance.

Kushanya kumba kwake chinhu chinonakidza, uye chisinganzwisisike, chiitiko. Nzvimbo dzeVitebsk dzakapesvedzera zvikuru mifananidzo yake, ine dzimba duku, fenzi, mhuka nevana. Idzi nzvimbo dzakafananidzwa mukukosha nemunyori wake wehupenyu, Jackie Wullschlager, kune pesvedzero iyo Dublin yaive naJames Joyce. Chagall akamboti: "Hapana kana mufananidzo mumwe wandinawo, kwausingakwanisi kuona chidimbu chePokrovskaya Street yangu."

Kuseri kwekunze kusingashamisi kwemba yake, inofunga, kana yakatarisana nebhajeti, kudzoreredzwa kwakaitika. Chikamu cheimba chaive chitoro chemuno chaitengesa girosari uye tsoka dzako dzinoungira pauriri hwemapuranga paunenge uchikwesha machira matsvuku-akafukidzwa nemadziro emadziro. Pane makamuri maviri chete, nekicheni. Chiratidziro chine spartan asi zvikeche uye madhindindi zvinopa maratidziro epamoyo ekuti hupenyu hwemhuri hunofanira kunge hwakaita sei. Pane mifananidzo yababa vake vakarara patafura yekudyira, samovar iri kuvira uye vaviri vachibvuta kumbundira. Mimwe mifananidzo inoratidza Chagall naPicasso muna 1906, uye Chagall nemudzimai wake wekutanga Bella nemwanasikana wavo Ida muFrance, vasati vadzokera kuRussia revolution.

Hapana chinoratidza kuti akanga ari muJudha, hapana muChirungu, uye kududzira kuduku, kunyange muchiRussia kana muBelarusian, saka iwe uchada kuita basa rako rechikoro usati wasvika. Kuseri kwemba kune bindu diki, rinoyevedza rine Chagall bhuronzi rakakomberedzwa nefenzi yebrown uye yegirini yakakombama.

Imwe Chagall inofanirwa kuona saiti muVitebsk ndiyo Chagall Art Museum, iri mhiri kwemupata muhombe wakavezwa nerwizi rweWestern Dvina. Inotsigirwa neEuropean Union, inoshaya kudzora kwemhando yemhepo, izvo zvinoreva kuti mifananidzo yaChagall kune kopi yeGogol's Dead Souls inochengetwa pasi pekuputira kwenguva yakawanda yegore. Makumi matatu lithographs pauriri hwepasi anosanganisira mamwe mapikicha echiratidzo: fiddlers, vanoda vanobhururuka mudenga, Chagall pane chimney. Chikamu chakasiyana chakatsaurirwa kumifananidzo yezvidzidzo zvechitendero.

Vitebsk inodzorerawo kumwe kuongorora. Izvo zvese zvakaparadzwa panguva yeHondo Yenyika Yechipiri, uye chikamu chega chepakati cheVitebsk kubva panguva yaChagall chikamu chidiki chakatenderedza Guta Hall, kubva kuLenin Street uye pamwe neSuvarova Street, uko fin de siècle yakaroverwa-simbi njanji pamusoro pemavharanda akarembera. .

Kumwewo, migwagwa yakafara yeguta uye zvivako zvinoshanda zvinoratidzika sokunge zvakadonhedzwa nendege mumabhuroko ekongiri akanga agadzirwa kare, asi zvinozvikudza zviri kupera. Pedyo neChagall Art Museum pane muzinda wagavhuna weRussia. Napoleon akapedza makore ake ekuzvarwa makumi mana nematatu pano, panguva yekurwisa kwakashata kwa43. (Chiyeudzo chinocherekedza makore zana enhimbe chinomira pakati penzvimbo ine miti.) Nhasi chivako chacho chine basa repachivande romunzvimbomo, kunyange zvazvo vachiratidzika kuva vanofara kuti iwe uchitore mufananidzo wacho. Sezvakaita mamwe maguta muBelarus, iyi inzvimbo yekutora mifananidzo yemamwe mashoma asara mabhazi eLenin uye mamwe maSoviet-era manhamba anoramba ari paruzhinji. Mazita emigwagwa akadai saSovetskaya naKirov anopa mhepo isingatarisirwi kubva kuSoviet yapfuura.

Zvakadaro Vitebsk isingatarisirwe kumusha kune imwe yeakanakisa uye anonyanya kufadza mahotera mune yaimbova Soviet Union. Inofambiswa nevaridzi vakabudirira, varidzi vepasi rose, uye makamuri eHotera Eridan ane munhu anobudirira uye resitorendi yacho yakanakisa, ine runyoro rwewaini runobva kuGeorgia kuenda kuAustralia.

Guta rine zvivakwa zvishoma zvekumusoro-soro, zvinoreva kuti rine maonero akanaka uye matenga mahombe kubva kunzvimbo dzepamusoro senge bhiriji mhiri kunoshamisa, kumawere-mabhangi eWestern Dvina. Pedyo neChechi yeAnnunciation, ine dhizaini yayo yekare yeByzantine yemabhuraki eraimu akaparadzaniswa nezvidhinha uye stucco kunze. Ndiwo chete muenzaniso uripo wezvivakwa zvakadaro kuchamhembe kweBlack Sea. Musuwo unotevera unomira yakanakisa, yakadzoreredzwa, yemapuranga Alexander Nevsky Orthodox chechi, inotangira kubva muzana ramakore rechigumi.

Ndakasiya Vitebsk nebhazi, ndichipfuura dzimba dzemapuranga dzePeskovatics, uko Chagall akaberekerwa. Rwendo rwangu rwakanga rwusina kusanganisa chikamu ichi, kwete nekuda kweruvengo rwuri kuenderera kuChagall asi zvakanyanya nekuti kushanya muBelarus kunoramba kuine embryonic. Pano, zvinosuruvarisa, dzaive dzimba dzematombo dzine mavara akajeka ayo Chagall angadai akaziva kubva paudiki hwake, pamwe chete nemafuremu akasvibira ewindow akasvibira, fenzi dzakachena uye vana vadiki-tag-tag. Ndaida kumisa bhazi ndimboongorora. Asi neimwe nzira, kuomerwa kwekuronda matsimba emurume uyu kwaiita sekunge kunoenderana nekukakama, kusinganzwisisike kwemifananidzo yake yeimwe nyika.

Compact facts

Nzira yekuenda nayo

Regent Holidays (0845 277 3317; regent-holidays.co.uk ) inopa husiku hushanu muBelarus kubva pa £ 654 pamunhu, zvichienderana nekugoverana maviri, kusanganisira ndege kubva kuHeathrow kuenda kuMinsk kuburikidza nePrague neCzech Airlines; mari yeairport; transfers; Husiku hutatu' B&B paHotera ine nyeredzi nhatu muMinsk; nehusiku huviri 'B&B pahotera ine nyeredzi nhatu Eridan muVitebsk.

Kuwedzera mamwe mashoko

Mavhiza anogona kuwanikwa pachine nguva kubva kuembassy yeBelarus (020-7938 3677; belembassy.org/uk) kana pakusvika kuMinsk airport. Iwe unofanirwa kunge uine yako pekugara yakanyoreswa kare uye tsamba yekukoka.