Ngoro dzinodhonzwa nemombe dzinokwenenzverwa nematombo akareba emabwe machena - aine masirogani akaita sekuti "Rarama nekusingaperi baba vedu" [Kim Il Sung]. Zvisaririra zvemigwagwa mina yemigwagwa nyoka inoenderana nechete njanji njanji inobata traffic dzese kuburikidza nekoridho yekumadokero mukoridho. Vana vechikoro vakapfeka zvikabudura zvakatsemuka vanotamba padyo nevatariri vane zviso zvakaomarara (vana vanoshandisa zvimiti; mauto, pfuti dzinongoerekana dzaitika).
Ma dichotomies akadaro anoratidza nyika inokatyamadza uye isingafungidzike iyo iDemocratic People's Republic of Korea, humambo hushe hunogona kubata zvombo zvenyukireya zvine gumi nemaviri kana zvimwe panguva imwechete panguva yekumhara kwenzara inogona kuparadza vazhinji vevarombo.
Zvino, nemishumo yekunze yekuti murume akasimba weNorth Korea Kim Jong Il ari kurwara zvakanyanya, kutarisisa kwepasi rese kuri kutarisa zvakare kune ino nyika inonetsa. Vatungamiriri venyika vanosara, zvisinei, zvakanyanya sevamwe vanhu vese, vakafunga nezvenzira iri pamberi peNorth Korea. Chikonzero cheichi chakareruka: hapana kana chinhu - nhau, zvekumadokero zvepamusoro, kunyangwe vanhu - zvinotenderwa mukati, kana kunze.
Asi ndiri pano, ndakakwira chitima chakatorwa kunze kweGerman nevamwe makumi matatu vashanyi vechiChinese uye vazhinji vevarindi vekuNorth Korea vanofamba-famba mumakombi, tichienda kuPyongyang. Ini ndauya kuzoona kuti pano hupenyu hwakaita sei kumaKorea, ndichitarisira zvizere zvisina musoro.
Chandakanga ndisingafungiri yaive nhoroondo yechidzidzo pane yangu tsika tsika nhaka (ndakatama kubva kuChina ndichienda kuUS pandakanga ndiri 6), nekuti ini ndakanga ndisingazive ndakapfuura nepakati penguva mu1970s Red China, kusvika pasi kuOrwellian kuongororwa kumanikidzwa kureurura.
Zororo rangu rakatanga muDandong, kudhindwa kwehuni kune chero chiChinese boomtown, migwagwa yayo ichizara netraffic, gaudy zvikwangwani, uye marudzi ese evatambi vanorarama kunze kwekurota kwemakapitalisheni. Mamwe mangwanani kunopera mwedzi wapfuura, iyo kamwe-zuva nezuva chitima chakadzora kuyambuka Rwizi rweYalu kuenda kuNorth Korea.
Kunyangwe paive nehasha dzaitarisirwa kubva kuvashanyi vechiChinese - "Tarisa uone kuti vangani vavakandidzira chitima ichi," akadaro mumwe mukadzi - vazhinji vatakuri vaive vachinzwisisa. "Vanorarama zvirinani kupfuura varimi muShaanxi neGansu," akadaro murume aive padhuze neni, akatarisa kunze kweminda mivara isingaperi yemupunga nechibage nedzimba dzakavakwa nehurumende.
Yedu yekufamba yaifamba yaisanganisira akasiyana siyana mavara: mukadzi wechikuru uyo aizowana zita remuramu wake pachikumbaridzo chePyongyang kune maComrade eChina akafa munguva yeKorea Hondo; mudiki serial serial mufambi anga achitogadzirira rwendo rwake rwunotevera, kukwira njanji yeTran-Siberian kuenda kuMoscow; chizvarwa chakasimba chiKorea aigara kuChina uye akatora rwendo urwu sekungochinjisa kwevhiki.
Kunyangwe iine kirasi yepakati iri kuwedzera iyo inogona kukwanisa kuenda kuzororo kuThailand kana kuHawaii, China ichine vanhu vazhinji vanoenda kuNorth Korea gore rega-mazana pazuva muna Nyamavhuvhu naSeptember panguva yemitambo yeArirang, yakatarwa jimunastiki. Inogona kunge iri tsvuku-kapeti kurapwa kwavanogashira (mashanu-nyeredzi mahotera, mabheti, mabiko eVIP), asi ini ndinoona kuti kune vamwe vandaifamba navo, vazhinji muma50s, rwendo urwu waive mukana wekudzokerazve vachiri kuyaruka vachiri kurwadziwa muChina , uye kuti, "Tarisa kusvika kwandasvika."
Mutungamiri mukuru, Ju Rol, achangoroora North Korea, akatikwazisa pachiteshi chechitima chaPyongyang chenguva yeSoviet. Haana kupfeka masutu asina kukosheswa anozivikanwa nevazhinji vekuNorth Korea, asi mahembe ekuMadokero-akabatanidzwa, uye pamwe neakajeka-echiChinese matauriro, akakurumidza kuzvifarira kuboka - kana vakadzi, vaiseka majee ake.
Akatikwidziridza bhazi rakanakisa rekushanya, rakazove kirasi yedu kwemazuva matatu akatevera. Chidzidzo chezuva rekutanga, pataikwidza kubva USS Pueblo yakatorwa kuenda kuPyongyang Metro, yakafukidza "runako nhatu" dzekuNorth Korea: greenery, mhepo, uye vakadzi. Senge ari kurara, mumwe wevanoyemura vanhukadzi vake akazivisa, "Hauzomboona matenga ebhuruu seizvi muBeijing."
PaZuva 2, akaisa pfungwa pa "vatatu vakasununguka" veKorea nzanga: dzidzo, hutano, uye dzimba. Nekuti takave nemaawa maviri ebhazi kuenda kuMt. Myohyang, imba kunhare yemakamuri mazana mana apo zvipo kuDPRK zvinoratidzwa nekuzvikudza, akakoka mibvunzo. “Zvii zviyo zvinogoverwa mushandi wega wega pamwedzi?” akabvunza Wang Zhelu, mudzidzisi anobva kuDalian.
"Makumi maviri nemanomwe makirogiramu," VaJu vakapindura, izvo zvakatungamira kugunun'una kwekubvumidzwa kubva kuboka rakanga rakura nemakondomu emugove (maererano neUN's World Food Program, iyo chaiyo nhamba iri padyo nemakirogiramu mashanu, nenyama inowanikwa chete pazororo renyika).
"Ko mafurati - akakura sei?" akabvunza Zhao Heping, injinjiniya yejeti yakamira pamudyandigere kubva Beijing.
"Masere mazana masere kusvika chiuru nemazana mashanu emamirimita." Izvi zvakakonzera kugunun'una kwakanyanya, sekutaura kwakaita mumwe mugari weBeijing izvo zvingave zvakakura kupfuura nzvimbo yake.
"Tinoshandira kupi kugara pano?" mumwe munhu akadambura, nehafu-nekuseka.
Pakuseka kuseka, Liu Yi, murwiri wekodzero dzevanhu kubva kuHong Kong, akabvunza, "Unogona kutenga mota here?"
Izvi zvaiita kunge zvisiri muchinyorwa chaJu. Mushure mekunyarara kwenguva refu, akati, "Ehe, kana uri mutambi wemamuvhi." Uye akabva atiudza kuti timbozorora.
Gare gare zuva iro, pakudya kwemasikati-kosi yematanhatu, mweya wacho waive wakasarudzika. "Hupenyu hauna kunetsekana pano," akadaro mumwe wevanotenga zvivakwa. "MuChina, kubva pazuva rekutanga rechikoro kuenda kuchikoro, une zvinokunetsa."
Zvakadaro, kune vamwe vevafambi, zvainge zvava kuoneka kuti chimwe chezvinangwa zvikuru zvevaNorth Korea nerwendo urwu kwaisave kuita mari ($ 350 kwemazuva ese anosanganisira mana), asi kugonesa maChinese kuti nyika ye30 mamirioni varimi neimwe nzira vakawana iro rekupedzisira mushandi paradhiso.
Pakupera kweZuva 3, vazhinji vevaChinese, kunyangwe vakafemerwa nezvikafu nemakonzati, vaive vasisina kugadzikana. Kuyerera kwemitemo inodzora zvavaigona kutora mifananidzo uye nekwavangaenda kwaive chimwe chinhu chavasati vamboona kubva kuCultural Revolution makore makumi matatu apfuura. Uye vakapotsa maserura avo (akachengetedzwa neNorth Korea tsika vamiririri pamuganhu, pamwe nepasipoti yedu).
Yangu foray - isina kuchengetedzwa kamwe - kupinda mudhorobha rePyongyang mamwe masikati yakaunza zviitiko zvayo. Pamamita matanhatu, 6 inches uye mutambo we "Ini moyo Brasil" T-shati, ini ndaive ndisingaonekwe, uye maNorth Koreans andakapfuura, ndichinetsekana nekubatanidzwa kune mutorwa, vaidzivirira kutarisana kwese nemaziso.
Kweawa, ndakabata zvishoma kuona kwehupenyu hwezuva nezuva muNorth Korea. Zvakandishamisa, zvaive zvisina kunyanya kusiyana neguta rako rechitatu-repasi. Mamiriro ezvinhu aive akajeka, hongu, asi kwete seasina kujairika sekufungidzira kwevazhinji vekuMadokero. Paive nevatengesi vemugwagwa, matiraki emagetsi, mabhasikoro, uye zvitoro zvemunharaunda.
Paive zvakare nemusiyano mumwe unozivikanwa: iyo isingaenzanisike pfungwa yeparanoia uye Stalinish kutonga. Tora dambudziko rangu remaawa matanhatu nePublic Security Bureau. Ini ndakabatwa mumambure avo pandakabvarura pfuti shomana dzeyakajeka imba yekumba, musika usingawanzo pabasa. Vakadzi vane stocky vakapfeka madhirezi epingi vakaerekana vaonekwa.
Vakandiendesa kumapurisa aityiwa, avo vakangondirega ndiende mushure mekuzvitsoropodza izvo zvaizoita kuti Mao adade. Asi izvi zvaisave zvekuve bhurasho rangu rekupedzisira nezviremera. Husiku hwakatangira kukwira kwedu chitima kudzokera kuChina, Ju aigara aine hushamwari, mutungamiri wedu, akaramba kubuda mukamuri rangu repahotera kudzamara akwanisa kutsvaga "memory" kadi kubva mukamera yangu.
Neraki, wandinogara naye akasarudza ino nguva kuti abude mushawa. Ju sezviri pachena akafunga kuti izvi zvainge zvakamuwandira uye akapwanya usiku.
Zuva rakatevera, parwendo rwekudzoka, mota yedu yechitima yakanyarara kuguta rekumuganhu reNorth Korea reSinuiju. Cadre yekuNorth Koreans, yakashongedzerwa mune zvemauto zvakaneta, yakaraira munhu wese kuti aburitse mabhegi avo, vachitsvaga mifananidzo isina kuwanikwa.
Pekupedzisira, nerufaro rukuru kubva kuboka redu, chitima chakatetepa kubva kuchiteshi, takananga kumwenje unopenya, Hukoko hweKentucky Fried, uye mahoneti evatyairi vematekisi vasingashiviriri vakatimirira mhiri kwerwizi kuChina.
ZVOKUBVA MUNYAYA INO:
- What I didn't expect was a history lesson on my own cultural heritage (I moved from China to the US when I was 6), for I had inadvertently stepped through a time portal into 1970s Red China, right down to the Orwellian surveillance and forced confessions.
- Such dichotomies reflect the perplexing and almost unimaginable world that is the Democratic People's Republic of Korea, a hermit kingdom that may harbor a half-dozen nuclear weapons or more while simultaneously being on the brink of a famine that could doom most of its peasant population.
- Even though it has a burgeoning middle class that can now afford to vacation in Thailand or Hawaii, China still has many people who journey to North Korea each year – hundreds per day in August and September during the Arirang mass games, a staged gymnastics spectacle.
