Ndichifamba nomumarenje ejecha eJorodhani; zviyeuchidzo zvisinganzwisisike zvakatemerwa jecha paPetra, nzvimbo dzebhaibheri, dunduru dzisina chinhu uye matenga azere nenyeredzi paWadi Rum zvose zvinondiunza nhanho pedyo kuti ndinzwisise kuti chii chaizvo chaiva pamusoro penyika iyi iyo yakafadza murume akazozivikanwa saLawrence weArabia.
Gamba kune vazhinji, mutengesi kune vamwe; nyanzvi, murwi, munhu asingazvizivi, shamwari yemadzinza echiArab kana tsori inopamba. Zvese zvakashandiswa kutsanangura munhu mukuru-kupfuura-hupenyu ane nhaka yave ngano uye dzimwe nguva inopokana pano.
Akazvarwa Thomas Edward Lawrence, kana TE Lawrence, akave ane mukurumbira makore angangoita zana apfuura apo akarwa pamwe chete nemadzinza eBedouin vachipesana nemaOttoman Turks panguva yekumukira kweArab kweWWI. Akarwa hondo idzi zvichida achitenda kuti kunetsana kukuru kwaizoguma kwaita kuti nyika yeArab yakabatana.
Zvinogona kutoitwa nharo kuti kuburikidza nemaitiro ake anotyisa, aive mumwe wevapanduki vemazuva ano ekutanga kushandisa mazano akafanana nehugandanga sechombo chehondo. Akaunganidza madzinza echiArab akaparadzana, uye pamwe chete nawo akafuridzira chitima chinotevera chitima chaigovera gadziriro yeuto reTurkey. Akaita kuti muvengi wake aomerwe nekutya.
“Chiuru cheArabhu chinoreva mapanga ane chiuru, anounzwa chero kupi zvako masikati kana usiku,” anodaro mumwe mutsigiri Peter O'Toole anoratidza TE Lawrence mufirimu rekare rakahwina Oscar ra1962, Lawrence wokuArabia, “Inoreva ngamera dzine chiuru. Izvi zvinoreva mapaketi ane chiuru emabhomba akakwirira nepfuti dzine churu.”
“Tinogona kuyambuka Arabia Johnny Turk achiri kutenderera, ndokupwanya njanji dzake,” anotsanangura kudaro kumutungamiriri weBritain Edmund Allenby, anoridzwa naJack Hawkins. “Uye paanenge achiagadzira, ndinoapwanya kumwewo. Mumavhiki gumi nematatu, ndinogona kuita Arabia mumhirizhonga. "
Uye nemuzvipingamupinyi zvose iye nemarudzi echiArab vakamhanya nemumarenje anopisa kuti varove zvinorwadza mauto eTurkey ane simba zvikuru.
Asi Lawrence weArabia nemadzinza eBedouin akanga asiri iwo varwi vekutanga vakakura-kupfuura-upenyu vakasiya chiratidzo chavo panzvimbo yakaoma, isingakanganwiri, inoshamisa iyo nhasi yava Humambo hweHashemite hweJoridhani. TE Lawrence pachake aiziva nezveRolodex yenhoroondo, iyo inoratidza budiriro huru dzakawanda dzakapfuura nenzira iyi.
Muna 333 BC, Alexander Mukuru akapinda nechisimba nemugwenga iri asati agadza humambo hukuru hwakaonekwa nenyika. Asi sezvo umambo hwakaumbwa muidzi migwagwa yakaiswa mujecha, saizvozvowo hwakawa; angave mauto eCrusader kana echiIslam, Mamluks kana maOttoman Turks. Imwe neimwe yakasiya mucherechedzo wayo munzvimbo dzekuchera matongo, nhare dzematombo anorema, nhare dzine porous kana zvisinganzwisisike zviyeuchidzo zvakavezwa mumatombo akapfava erenje.
Rwendo rwangu kuburikidza neJoridhani rwunotanga nekusafara uye kunyaradzwa kwakawanda paMövenpick Resort uye Spa yakatarisana nemvura yakadzikama yeGungwa Rakafa. Iyi ndiyo nzvimbo yakaderera pasi pano, pamamita 408 pasi pegungwa. Mwaranzi yezuva inopenya segirazi rinobva mumvura idzi dzakadirwa munyu zvokuti ndinogona kuyangarara pamusoro pemvura zvine mashiripiti ndichiverenga pepanhau zvakanaka kwazvo.
Iri hotera yakasarudzika muMupata weJoridhani inoumbwa neakatevedzana echinyakare sandstone matombo akaiswa munzvimbo yakaita semusha inosiya chero chiitiko. Miti yemichindwe, zvirimwa zvakasvibirira zvemunzvimbo dzinopisa, hibiscus tsvuku-yeropa ichitumbuka kwese, iine madziva nemapopoma akakwidzwa nemubairo weZara Spa - inokurudzirwa nemumwe kunze kwaCondé Nast Traveller.
Asi mugwenga zvinhu hazvisi nguva dzose sezvazvinoratidzika. Mangwanani oga oga mambakwedza matangi makuru emvura maviri anoendesa mvura yakachena yekudyisa zvinomera zvinenge zvisina kumira zvakanaka. Kufanana nenhema-oasis chiyeuchidzo chezuva nezuva kuti pasinei nemichindwe nezvinomera zvakasvibirira, ichi chigadziro chimwe chinhu chekufungidzira. Ndiyo nzvimbo yakaoma uye yakaoma iyo 'Lawrence' akatsungirira zvine hungwaru.
Iyi nzvimbo yerenje haina mavambo enhoroondo ekare. Kumugumo wokuchamhembe kweGungwa Rakafa ndinoshanyira nzvimbo dzinotangira munguva dzeBhaibheri. Mvura dzinoyerera dzeRwizi rwaJoridhani neNzvimbo Yekubhapatidzwa idzodzi anonyengera dzakajairika muchitarisiko; asi iyi inonzi inzvimbo iyo muporofita Ilias akakwira kumatenga.
Pedyopo pane Gomo reNebho nomuchinjiko waro unomonereka wakatarisana neGungwa Rakafa, Mupata woRwizi rwaJoridhani, Jeriko neJerusarema. Apa ndipo panonzi muprofita Mosesi akatanga kuona Nyika Yakapikirwa.
Asi uchienda kumaodzanyemba muhumambo uhwu hwakaoma uye hune jecha pane imwe saiti inoisa Joridhani pamepu yevanoda kuziva tsika. Uyu ndiPetra. Yakavhota muna 2007 seimwe ye 'Zvitsva Zvinomwe Zvinoshamisa Zvenyika', Petra iri muWadi Araba. Nzvimbo iyi imyuziyamu mhenyu yemakore zviuru gumi zvenhoroondo yevanhu.
Zviyeuchidzo zvakavigwa zvePetra zvinosvikwa neimwe nzira nhete kuburikidza neSiq inoshamisa, iyo yakavezwa nezvisikwa mujecha rine ruvara rwerose. Masikati mabhiza anomhanya anodhirowa zvingoro madiki anokwira nekudzika munzira akatakura vashanyi vanonamatira pangowani dzavo sezvavanoswedera zvine ngozi pedyo nekurova vanofamba netsoka parwendo rwavo rwekutevedzana kwezviyeuchidzo zvinobviswa munzvimbo yakakura.
Kufamba kana kutsika kunogumira paPfuma, mufananidzo wakanyanya weJorodhani nhasi uye unotendwa kuti iguva raNabatean King Aretas III. Pane mamwe manheru iwe unogona kutoona 'Petra by Night', uko kufamba kumwe chete uku kunoitwa chinyararire usiku munzira yerudo mwenje wekenduru inogumira kuPfuma, iyo inovhenekerwawo nemhando dzegoridhe dzemakenduru anopfuta nemazhenje.
Nepo Treasury ichiita senge mavakirwo evaGiriki vekare kana vaRoma, iyo mbiru yakavezwa yakavezwa mumatombo akapfava yakadzokera kumashure ku100 BC kusvika 200 AD. Kuburikidza nemukana wekusangana, ndinonzwa kuti handiyo kusvika munhoroondo yenguva pfupi yapfuura apo mapako akawanda e-black-char akagarwa nemhuri dzeBedouin.
“Isu tiri vamwe vanhu vose veNabatean, vanhu vaya vakauya kuPetra. Takabva kuYemen, kubva kuSaudi Arabia mumakaravhani murenje, "Ghassab Al-Bidul, muBedouin akarererwa mumapako anondiudza. Muna 1985 vakuru vakuru veUNESCO vakatamisa muBedouin kumusha muduku waiva pedyo kwaakakurira.
Kunyange ave mutungamiri wemitauro yakawanda uye akachinja hupenyu hwake kuti huenderane nehupfumi hwekushanya, achiri kuchengetedza humwe hutsika hwetsika hwehudiki hwake. Paakabvunzwa kana aizonyora nezvokurerwa kwake mumapako ePetra, mhinduro yake yakanga iri nyore.
“Ndinayo muhana saka handidi kuinyora. Kana uinazvo mupfungwa zviri nani nekuti ipapo hausi kuzochembera. Asi kana wainyora pasi unofanira kuiverenga zvakare. Ndinorangarira zvese muhupenyu hwangu. Sei ndichinyora mubhuku ini ndine zvese?
TE Lawrence ainyatsoziva mafungiro aya, asi aizivawo kuti nzanga yekumadokero inoda izwi rakanyorwa kuti riite nguva huru mundangariro uye kuzvizvarwa. Akaita izvi mundangariro dzake mubhuku rinonzi “Seven Pillars of Wisdom,” raakanyora kubva mundangariro dzake dzechimurenga cheArab, nechikamu chake mazviri.
Asi maiva mukati meJorodhani muWadi Rum umo Lawrence weArabia akawana zvose zviri zviviri nyaradzo nenhamo. Ndisati ndasvetukira mujipi kuti ndiende kumipata yerenje, ndinozvitengera sikavha yeskweya tsvuku nechena, jira rine mavara rinokudzivirira kubva kumhepo inovhuvhuta, jecha nehusiku hunotonhora hwerenje.
Kumucheto kwerenje boka rejipi rinotyairwa nemaBedouin rinotisimudza - matanhatu kumotokari - tisati tamhanya nemumadutu takananga kumusasa. Isu tinofambisa nemumirwi yematombo tichisiya shure chete murwi wakanaka wejecha. Migwagwa chete pano inzira dzakasakara kubva kune dzakapfuura nzendo dzinotungamira vatyairi pakufamba kwemaawa maviri.
Tinodzika musasa panzvimbo yakakura yerenje ine matombo ane zvimiro zvechienzi uye nhongonya dzinopfuura nomunzvimbo isina chinhu kunze kwegungwa rejecha. Pano iwe unogona kunzwa maungira ezwi rako parinosvetuka kubva padombo kuenda padombo, uye drones dzenyeredzi dzinotamba mumhepo inotonhora yemanheru. Ndine chokwadi chekuti kwaive kunzwa kusinganzwisisike kwezvose zviri zviviri kusurukirwa, kufara uye rusununguko rwemunhu zvakaita kuti TE Lawrence anzwe ari pamba pano.
Nzvimbo yacho ine mipata mirefu ine matombo inokwira kumusoro kwechidhinha chakatsvuka. Musumbu wegwenzi wakaoma asi uri mupenyu zvikuru ndiwo unopwanya kuerera kwemakoronga ari mujecha. Uswa hunoputsika hunosiya muswe shure kwahwo, kusvibiswa kwewavy kuumbwa nemhepo yemugwenga kana madutu ejecha.
“MuBedouin womugwenga, akaberekerwa uye akakurira mariri, akanga ambundikira nemweya wake wose kushama uku kune hasha kune vanozvipira, nokuda kwechikonzero, akanzwa asi asinganzwisisiki, kuti ikoko akazviwana akasununguka zvisingabviri. Lawrence anonyora muThe Seven Pillars of Wisdom, kuti: “Akarasikirwa nezvisungo zvokunyama, nyaradzo, upfu hwose nezvimwe zvinetso kuti awane rusununguko rwomunhu oga rwaitambudza nzara norufu.
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