Ndichitenga mafiti 12,500 67 pamusoro pemwero wegungwa pamusika uri kure neLake Titicaca, ndakaona kuti ndaigona kutenga llama neinenge US$60, chipande chendove yemombe nemasendi 30 uye katsi nemasendi makumi matatu.
Zvipfuyo zvisinganzwisisike uye marara hakusi kuda kuziva kukuru kwaunosangana nako pano, zvakadaro. Vanhu veUro vePeru vakagara pamusoro pemvura yeLake Titicaca kubvira kare kusati kwatanga budiriro yeIncan zviuru zvemakore apfuura. Uye iyo iri pamusoro pegungwa.
Vagari vomunzvimbo iyi vanovaka zvitsuwa zvetsanga kwavanovakira dzimba dzetsanga uye kwavanofamba vachishandisa zvikepe zvetsanga zvakanaka. Vanobata hove, vanounganidza miriwo inodyiwa uye vanobata kana kupfura shiri kuti vadye. Aya ndiwo mararamiro avo, kunyange zvazvo vechidiki vari kutanga kutamira kumahombekombe uye mberi.
Zvichida vechidiki vari kutsvaga kugadzikana. Ndakawana kufamba pazvitsuwa zviduku, zvine tsanga dzakanyorova kwakaoma, zvikurukuru pasina chinodzivisa kukudzivisa kutsvedza mumvura ine aizi. Kunyange zvazvo vagari vepachitsuwa chacho vachigara vachitsiva pamusoro petsanga, vana vave vachizivikanwa kuti vanodonha kana tsanga dzinoumba pasi pechitsuwa chacho dzaora. Hunde dzakakora dzeeucalyptus dzinoisa zvitsuwa pasi pegungwa.
Rimwe zuva muchando chaipenya muna July, mumwe murume weUro nemwanakomana wake vakatakura murume wangu neni pachiteshi chezvikepe chiri nechemberi kweHotera Titlaka yakatarisana neBay of Puno, kwataigara. Denga nemvura zvakanga zviri bhuruu yakadzika, uye makomo akafukidzwa nesinou eBolivia aipenya nechekure sezvataiyangarara tichibva paimba yedu yemhenderekedzo yegungwa yeHamptons yakakura yeimba yevaeni kuenda kunyika yezvitsuwa zvetsanga, pamusoro pedzimba dzetsanga dzinoratidzika kuva dzisina kusimba kwazvo. vaigona kubvongodza uye kuvakwevera pasi.
Bubble-Gum Balloons
Tichimhara pane chimwe chezvitsuwa zvidiki, zvichida mafiti makumi mashanu kureba, takawana tsika dzechinyakare uye vana vaifuridza mabharumu epink bubble-gum. Mumwe mukadzi wekare-kare akapfeka zvipfeko zvakasakara, zvine mavara emuraraungu akayamwisa mwana wake chinyararire. Vana vakatamba mutambo wakaita setagi sezvo tsanga dzakanyorova dzainyura pasi petsoka dzavo. Mhepo inotonhora yakavhuvhuta pamusoro pechitsuwa.
Ngano inotaura kuti Uro wekupedzisira ane ropa rakachena akafa makore makumi mashanu apfuura. Mazuva ano, dziva ravo remajini richiri duku, vaUro vanowanzoroorana nevaAymara neQuechua vomunharaunda yacho.
Sezvandakatarira kunze kwechitsuwa chacho, Lake Titicaca yaiita seyakaramba ichienderera mberi nokusingaperi. Dziva repamusoro-soro pasi rose rinofambika nechikepe igungwa rakakura riri mukati menyika rinosvika kuBolivia. Kufamba nechikepe kubva kuPuno kuenda kuchikamu chemahombekombe eBolivia chiri padyo neguta guru reLa Paz rwendo rwemakiromita anopfuura 100 (makiromita 160). Muganhu wenyika mbiri idzi uri pane imwe nzvimbo pakati pegungwa.
Mutsara iwoyo wemumvura unoita kuti Lake Titicaca ive nzvimbo yakabatikana usiku, apo vapari vezvikepe vanoyambuka vari muzvikepe zviduku, vachifamba nenyeredzi uye vakatakura zvinhu zveBolivia zvinotengeswa kuti vatengese mumisika yeko muPeru.
'Zvose Contraband'
Nemafashamo ekupinda kunze kwenyika zvisiri pamutemo, musika muJuliaca, Peru - kwandakaona katsi dzakachipa - uri kuwedzera neSvondo.
“Contraband. Zvese zvisiri pamutemo, "mutungamiri wangu, Julio Suano, akadaro.
"Vanobiridzira toilet paper?" ndakabvunza.
“Chokwadi,” akadaro. “Zvakare maChinese midhudhudhu nemacrackers. Uye gasi. Gasi ma sole matanhatu (inenge $1.93) parita muBolivia uye 15 soles (inenge $4.83) parita.”
Zuva rakatevera racho takaenda nechikepe kuchitsuwa chakaisvonaka cheTaquile. Ichi chitsuwa chaicho, chematombo akajeka uye maturu anopinza akavakwa neInca; yeminda yendarama, ivhu rakasvibira rine miforo nemiti yakasvibira yakasvibirira.
Wedzera mudzimba dzine matenga matsvuku, uye yaigona kunge yakasimudzwa nendege kubva kuTuscany, kunyangwe isina magetsi nemota. Suano akati vagari vepachitsuwa vakaparadzaniswa netsika dzemazuva ano kusvika kuma1950.
Textile 'Masterpieces'
Hupfumi hwaTaquile hwakavakirwa patsika refu yekuruka micheka yakakosha zvekuti makore mana apfuura Unesco yakazivisa chitsuwa ichi nehunyanzvi hwacho chimwe chemakumi mana nematatu "Mhizha dzeOral uye Intangible Heritages of Humanity." Vanoruka zvisikwa zvavo zvine mavara pazvirukwa zvakagadzikwa uye zvekutsika-tsika izvo zvinotangira nguva dzisati dzavapo.
Takazvitutumadza nzira yekudzokera kumashure kuenda kumusangano wechitsuwa kuti tione mienzaniso yehunyanzvi. Miguel Cruz Qispe, mumwe wevaruki veTaquile vane mukurumbira, akakwazisa chikepe chedu ndokubva anyatsosunga nhanho dzematombo 535 inova imwe nzira yekuenda pamusoro. Akatikwazisa zvakare panhongonya, tisina kana kure kure nekufema mushure mehupenyu hwekukwira pakakwirira.
Varume, vakadzi nevana vanoruka uye vanoruka pamwe chete, uye vanopfeka zvipfeko zvechivanhu zvavanogadzira. Varuki veTaquile vanonyanya kuzivikanwa nechullo, ngowani yakarukwa yaipfekwa nevarume kwemazana emakore matanhatu apfuura.
A red-and-white chullo inoratidza kuwanikwa kwewanano, nepo zvese-tsvuku zvinoreva zvatotorwa. Vagari vepazvitsuwa vanozivikanwawo nebhandi rekarenda rinopfekwa nevarume, rinoratidza mwaka, mabasa ekurima uye tsika dzemunharaunda gore rose.
Mutengo Wakakwirira, Hapana Haggle
Mitengo yakakwira kuPeru. Bhandi rekarenda rakaomarara rinogona kuenda nemari inopfuura $100, uye pairatidzika kuva nechido chiduku chekutengeserana. Kumwewo ndakatenga bag rakarukwa nemaoko kune mumwe mukadzi padivi penzira ne$5. Sezvineiwo, yanga isiri iyo UNESCO- yakasarudzwa nyanzvi.
Iyo itsva Hotel Titlaka, 18-suite boutique hotera, inoenda kure kuti igadzirise kushaikwa kwepokugara kwakanaka kwakapoteredza Lake Titicaca. Iwo emukati meminimalist anopa yakaringana kumashure kweakajeka echivanhu art inotumbuka mumakona ese.
Imwe neimwe suite ine bhabhu hombe yekunyura, yakanaka kune mhasuru dzinorwadza mushure mekukwira kumusoro kweTaquile, uye mahwindo makuru ekuona kwegungwa. Mutengo we552- $ 725 pamunhu pahusiku unosanganisira yakazara bhodhi uye ese mahogi, zvinwiwa zvemba newaini nekudya, pamwe nenzendo dzezvikepe kuenda kuzvitsuwa uye kushanya kunotungamirwa kunzvimbo dzekuona nemisha. Vaenzi vakachengetera husiku huviri vachawana humwe husiku hunodiwa.
Kayaks uye zvikepe zvezvikepe zviripo zvekushandiswa kwevaenzi. Ndizvo zvakaita matangi eokisijeni, akarapa murume wangu mumaminetsi mashanu mushure mehusiku hwehurwere hwepamusoro.
