KIGALI, Rwanda — Kushanyira nzvimbo dzinozivikanwa nekufa hazvisi zvitsva. Unogona kushanyira misasa yevasungwa yeNazi yeDachau kuGerman neAuschwitz muPoland, kana nzvimbo dzekuuraya dzeChoung Ek muCambodia. Vashanyi vakatsvaga zvishoma nezve matongo eWorld Trade Center mukati memazuva eSeptember 11th kurwiswa.
Rwanda ndiyo imwe nzvimbo iyo vashanyi vanogona kupupurira kuurayiwa kwevanhu vasina mhosva. Macabre chirangaridzo nzvimbo dzakapararira nenyika yose dzinoratidzira kuuraya kwakaipisisa muna 1994 apo vaHutus vanonyanyisa vakauraya 800,000 vaTutsi nevaHutus vane mwero.
Ndakatenderera mamwe emasaiti aya parwendo kuenda kunyika gore rapfuura. Machechi uye zvikoro uko zviuru zvevanhu zvakaurawa hazvina kushandisirwa vashanyi. Zvinosanganisira mifananidzo yakajeka yemadehenya, mapfupa uye kunyange zvitunha zvakachengetedzwa. Zvaityisa, hongu, uye zvinotyisa. Asi vanopa ratidziro chaiyo yehutsinye uye hutsinye hwehondo uye hwekuuraya vanhu.
Nzvimbo yakatamisa moyo yandakashanyira yaive chirangaridzo chekuparadza rudzi pachikoro cheMurambi kuGikongoro. Mumwe mutyairi akanditakura kuhotera yangu muKigali, guta guru reRwanda, na4 mangwanani kuti nditange kufamba kwemaawa matatu kubva ipapo kuenda kuchikoro. Mwanasikana wake, Foufou Sabati, mudzidzi wepayunivhesiti, akatiperekedza, achishanda semushanduri asina kurongwa.
Mutungamiri, Rusariganwa Francois, akafamba neni naFoufou kuburikidza nemakirasi akasiyana siyana. Francois akati vanhu vakadirana kuchikoro chehunyanzvi panguva yerudzi rwevanhu kuti vatsvage kudzivirirwa kubva kune mhondi, asi pakupedzisira mapoka erufu akasvika ndokuvauraya nezviuru.
Pamusoro peguva rakawandisa kunze, matafura mukirasi yega yega akafukidzwa nemitumbi yevakafa yakachengetwa muiri yeupfu. Mimwe mitumbi yakamonyaniswa, yakakomberedzwa inoramba kufa, mimwe inoita kunge yakamisikidzwa kumagumo avo. Zviso zvavo zvakachengetedzwa nenzira dzakasiyana siyana, kubva pakutya kusvika pakuvhunduka kusvika pakuvhunduka kukuru. Vamwe vanozvidzivirira; vamwe vanobatana. Vamwe vanhu vakuru, vamwe vana, vamwe vacheche. Machete kutsemuka kuchiri kuoneka pane zvakasara zvadzikira. Rwendo urwu rwunoenderera mberi nekamuri rizere nembatya dzakazara ropa dzakapfekwa nevaya vakaurayiwa, dzakarembera kubva pazviridzwa zvehembe.
Kudzoka kuKigali, Hotel des Milles Collines ndeimwe nzvimbo inokosha. Ihotera inoshanda muKigali, asi yakaitwa mukurumbira nemubhaisikopo “Hotel Rwanda,” iyo inotaura nyaya yechokwadi yaPaul Rusesabagina uye nevanhu vanopfuura chiuru vaakachengetedza ipapo panguva yekuparadzwa kwevanhu. Iyo bhaisikopo yakatorwa muSouth Africa, saka vashanyi havazoziva chero chaiwo marongero, asi zviri nyore kufungidzira zviitiko zvichitamba, nedziva hombe rekushambira richishandiswa remvura yekunwa uye vapoteri vanotya vavanda mumigwagwa.
Kumwe kunhu, kuuraya kwakawanda kunotyisa kwakaitika mumachechi umo vanhu vakaungana zvisina maturo, vachitarisira nzvimbo yekutizira. Mutyairi wangu akandiendesa kuchechi yeNtarama kunze kweKigali, uko kwakaurayiwa zviuru zvevamwe. Mabhanhire epepuru anorembera paruzhowa kunze kwechechi yezvitina zvitsvuku ine mucherechedzo unoti, "Hatichazombovazve."
Iyo 12-tsoka dzakakwirira siringi yakavezwa nemakomba emabara uye yakasvibiswa neropa. Vazhinji vevachechi zviuru gumi vakaurayiwa vangangobayiwa nemapanga kana makirabhu. Chiumbwa cheMhandara Maria chinoramba chakazara mumatope. Imwe nyaya yekuratidzira inorangarira kushanya kwaPapa John Paul II. Mhosva yechitatu izere nemadehenya evaya vakaurayiwa vakatarisa nekutya muenzi. Kamuri diki padhuze neatari inopfachukira mudenga nehembe dzisina kugezwa dzevabirwa.
Dutu remhepo rakadzinga simba zuva randakashanyira, richindisiya ndichirova kunyange rima pandakanga ndichiongorora kuchema pasi pechechi. Mazana emadehenya uye mapfupa, angave akatsemuka nekutyoka, akamira mukoridho wakamanikana uye akangozoonekwa kana strobe yangu yekamera ichipenya mubako rakasviba. Zvaisavhundutsa.
Pane imwe nzvimbo, chechi yeNyamata, mamaira 14 kumaodzanyemba kweKigali, vashanyi vanosangana nemukoto wemasherufu, wakazara nemadehenya nemapfupa, mukati memukova. Tsanga dzemadehenya dziine maburi nemagouge anobva kumachete, mabara uye makirabhu. Makuru mairi makomo emakumbo nemawoko mapfupa, akaunganidzwa zvisina kurongeka, parutivi peatari.
Iyi nzvimbo dzinotyisa uye dzakasimba dzinogona kuvhundutsa vamwe, asi chero munhu anoshanya kuRwanda anofanira kuenda kuKigali Memorial Center, iyo yakavhurwa gore regumi regumi rekuurayiwa kwevanhu muna 10. Varongi vakavaka nzvimbo iyi pane nzvimbo ine guva revanhu vanopfuura 2004 vakaurayiwa.
Iri nzvimbo rinopa yakanakisa nhoroondo yenhoroondo yeRwanda nezviitiko zvinotungamira kuhondo. Inopindirana inoratidzira inoratidza kubvunzurudzwa nevakapona uye nhaurirano dzekuuraya, kushungurudza, dambudziko revapoteri uye kupora. Imwe imba yekudyira yakatsaurirwa kuvana vanobatwa inoratidzira akawandisa mafoto evana uye maprofiles.
Nemadziro ayo emifananidzo yemhuri, iyo nzvimbo inoshanda kwete chete sechirangaridzo kune avo vakaurayiwa, asiwo senzvimbo iyo vapenyu vanogona kuuya kuzochema vadikani vavo. Travel + Leisure magazini yakazivisa kuti pakavhurwa nzvimbo, nhengo zhinji dzemhuri dzakauya dzichiramba kuenda, vamwe vachigara nekurara pasi pasi kwemazuva.
Pakutanga, mumotokari, Foufou, mwanasikana wemutyairi wangu, anga anongedzera dzimba dzakapunzika dzakaputirwa nemhondi, zviyeuchidzo zvidiki uye kunyange vasungwa vakapfeka pinki vakasungwa nemhosva dzehondo vachishanda muminda.
Ndakamubvunza kuti sei vachibvumidzwa kufamba-famba pachena.
"Ivo havangapunyuke," akadaro. "Havana kwekuenda pakati pevavakidzani vavo."
Chokwadi, zviyeuchidzo zvekuparadza rudzi zvaive kwese kwese. Mazuva mashoma zvisati zvaitika, ndakanga ndapfuura hofisi uko vapukunyuki vakamirira mumutsetse kuti vataure vanhu vaive vatora chikamu mukuuraya uku. Mavhiki akati gare gare ndakazviwana ndiri muArusha, Tanzania, uko mhondi dzaipomerwa dzaitongwa nedare reUnited Nations.
Kunyangwe iyi nhaka yekufa, ndakabatwa netariro yevakawanda vanhu vandakasangana navo muRwanda. Pazuva rekutyaira kwedu kwemangwanani, ndakanga ndaona kubuda kwezuva naFoufou nababa vake, uye zvaitaridzika neimwe nzira kuratidza mambakwedza matsva akagamuchirwa nevanhu pano.
"Kune nzira imwe chete, uye ndiko kukanganwirwa," Foufou akange anditaurira. “Panguva yekuparadza rudzi kune vavakidzani vaiuraya vavakidzani, asi mushure mehondo isu tichiri vavakidzani. Kuti munzwisise, munofanira kutaurirana. ”
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Kana Ukaenda…
KIGALI: Mahotera muKigali anosanganisira Hotel des Milles Collines uye Intercontinental. Ndakagara kuOne Love Club, iri kunze kwedhorobha. Makamuri mahombe akapamhama aive madhora makumi matatu nemashanu. Zvakawanikwa muhotera zvinobatsira kubhadhara iyo One Love Project, iyo inopa rubatsiro rwemabhonzo, zvigadzirwa zvemaoko, mawiricheya nemadondoro kune vakaremara nevamwe vakawirwa nehondo. Iwe unowana yekudyira yakanaka yechiChinese ipapo, nepo padyo nepadyo, Lalibela, chidya cheIthiopia resitorendi, ine yakanaka gadheni marongero.
KUENDA PANO: Ndege dzendege dzinoenda kuKigali kubva kuNairobi, Kenya, dzinosanganisira Kenya Airways neRwandair Express
KUTANGA: Matekisi anowanikwa panhandare yendege, mahotera nematekisi ematekisi muguta. Ndakahaya mutyairi wangu kubva panomira tekisi kwemazuva maviri kuti andifambise kuenda kunzvimbo dzakasiyana dzekurangarira rudzi.
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