Mangwanani ezuva muSouth Greenland logo pahembe yaIb Laursen yakataura zvese zvisingaite. Mutsara wakapfava wakadhirowewa unoratidza gomo rechiratidzo richikwira kuseri kwemusha weNarsaq, nzvimbo yechando inogara yakarongwa neshinda. Ndiri pakati pemunda wemaruva emusango ndakataura naLaursen, dipatimendi remunhu mumwe chete rekushanya reNarsaq, nezve nzira dzakawanda dzekudziya kwepasi kwaikanganisa nharaunda yake. Ndakabva ndaziva kuti gomo rimwechete rakwira kumashure kwake.
Wanga uri Chikunguru uye pagomo chairo nhandare yekusingaperi yechando yakanga yanyungudika.
Kazhinji kutepfenyura muhuwandu uye hunches, nyaya yekushanduka kwemamiriro ekunze haiwanzo kuoneka zvakadaro. Uye kunyangwe ndiinewo chinhu chekutarisa kwemawere egranite nemazaya echando, ndakanga ndauya kuGreenland kuti ndione kana ingangoita chiteshi chekuzoongorora kukanganisa kwekudziya kwepasi pahutano hwepasi.
Chokwadi, Greenland inzvimbo isina kushanduka kwemamiriro ekunze, kushanduka kwayo kwemuviri kunoonekwa kunyange nemuenziwo zvake. Runako rwakajeka, rwusingakanganwiki rwechitsuwa ichi—chikurusa chepasi—chinomanikidza mushanyi kutarisana neramangwana repasi pose pose, uye munzira dzisingatarisirwi.
Kune avo vedu vakaongorora gumbeze rakakura rechando reGreenland kubva pachigaro chehwindo rendege pamamita 36,000, tichidzokera kumba kubva kuEurope, zvakaoma kuramba kunakidzwa kwekuburuka mundege uye kusangana neimwe yepasirese iri kure kwazvo. nzvimbo. Asi tisati tamhara ndakanga ndisingazivi zvokutarisira—vanhu vakabudirira sei munzvimbo yandaigona kungofungidzira kuti yaiva nzvimbo isina kujeka zvikuru?
Kunenge kusina migwagwa inobatanidza rimwe taundi nerimwe—kurebesa kweasphalt makiromita manomwe. Nzvimbo dzekugara dziri pedyo nemhenderekedzo yekumaodzanyemba kwakadziva kumadokero dzakabatanidzwa nezvikepe kaviri pavhiki zvinoshanda munguva yezhizha, apo zviteshi zvisina aizi. Zvikasadaro munhu anobhururuka kubva kuguta kuenda kune rimwe dhorobha, kazhinji kuburikidza neAir Greenland yakarongwa helicopter service. Asi hupenyu hwehupenyu hunogona kuyerwa nedzimwe nzira.
"Greenland inyika yakapfuma kwazvo," akadaro Aasi Chemnitz Narup, meya weguta guru reGreenland, Nuuk (aka Godthåb). “Tine mhuka dzesango dzakawanda, mvura yakachena nemhepo yakachena—zvinhu zvinokosha pakurarama. Uye isu tine zvicherwa zvicherwa: goridhe, rubi, madhaimani, zingi. " Tisingarevi matura emafuta muBaffin Bay. Vakasanganiswa, vanogona kubatsira Greenland kuchengetedza rusununguko kubva kuDenmark rimwe zuva, iyo nyika yave iri dunhu rinozvitonga kweanoda kusvika mazana matatu emakore.
Asi kudziya kwepasi kuri kuomesa mufananidzo. Mvura inodziya inoreva shrimp iyo yakambozadza fjords yeSouth Greenland yakatamira kuchamhembe, ichimanikidza nharaunda dzinobata hove kutsvaga kubata kwadzo mumvura yakadzika. Chokwadi, zhizha rakareba rakabvumira kurima uye zvipfuwo kutanga kumaodzanyemba—zvose zvichitsigirwa zvikuru. Asi kuchamhembe, makungwa aigona kunzi ari kuoma chando muchando choga choga haachavimbiki, kureva kuti kuvhima—polar bear, walrus, seal—hakuchavimbiki.
Indasitiri yekushanya iri kusimukira iri kubudirira nezvikepe zvekufamba, ichizvikudza makumi matatu neshanu kushanya muzhizha ra35, zvakapetwa kaviri kufona kwegore rapfuura. Chitambi chepasipoti cheGreenland chiri kuwana cachet pakati pechaunga changa chaitwa-icho: Gore rapfuura Bill Gates akauya kune heli-skiing, uye Google's Sergey Brin naLarry Page vakaenda kite-surfing.
Dzimba dzemapuranga dzeQaqortoq ((Julianehåb). Mufananidzo naJens Buurgaard Nielsen.
Mazuva maviri muNuuk, dzimbahwe reGreenland uye taundi umo ndege yangu yakamhara, akanga akakwana kunzvera nharaunda yacho, kubatanidza kufamba neigwa kukwira pedyo, ma<em>fjords ane chando. Zviripachena kuti rwendo rwacho rwakanga rwuri rufambo rwekuona whale asi hofori dzacho padzakanga dzisiri shoo takagutsikana nerunako runyoro rwekamusha kadiki, kechirimo chete kainzi Qoornoq, tichiyevedza masikati ezuva aipedza kutanha maruva emusango. icebergs. Takavhara zuva nekunakirwa chikafu chinoyevedza paNipisa, resitorendi iri-inopfungaira trout, howa risotto, filet yemombe yemusk, uye maberries nemukaka wakakanyiwa, tichidzokera kuhotera pakati pehusiku tisingade tochi kana kusungirirwa kukuru. Rimwe remadhorobha madiki pasirese — vanhu zviuru gumi nezvitanhatu — Nuuk ipfupi pane zvekuvaka charisma asi ine ruzhinji rwezvisikwa zvinonyaradza, kusanganisira hombe yekushambira yemukati ine girazi pamberi yakatarisana nechiteshi chengarava.
Asi kwakanga kuri South Greenland, rwendo rwokubhururuka rwemaminiti 75 kubva kuNuuk, uko ndakatanga kuda nzvimbo yeArctic. Narsarsuaq, nhandare yendege yepasi rose uye kugarwa kwevanhu vasingangoita zana, ndiyo nzvimbo huru yekusvetuka yemisha iri pamhenderekedzo yekumaodzanyemba, dunhu riri palatitude imwe chete neHelsinki neAnchorage. Matongo echiuru chemakore ekuNorse ari pamhenderekedzo yegungwa, kunyanya kuBrattahlío, uko Eric the Red akatanga kugara uye kubva kwakatanga mwanakomana wake Leif Eriksson kunoongorora North America, mazana mashanu emakore pamberi peColumbus. Brattahlío yakavambwa zvakare muma100s nemurimi Otto Fredriksen saQassiarsuk, uye kurima makwai kwakagadziriswa zvakare.
Vashanyi vanhasi vanogona kuongorora chechi yakavakwa patsva uye turf-topped longhouse, zvese zvakavakwa mu10th-century style. Achitaura nyaya yekugara muNordic garb, Edda Lyberth akashandira chikafu chechinyakare Inuit chechisimbiso chakaomeswa, cod uye whale, reindeer yakabikwa, muzinga uye matsva matema currants.
Ndakawana chisimbiso, kunyanya, chakaoma kudumbu, asi chinoramba chiri chikafu chevazhinji.
Pasi pefjord pane Qaqortoq, dzimba dzayo dzemapuranga dzinokwikwidza makomo ane hunyanzvi anokomberedza muraraungu akakomberedza chiteshi chengarava.
Iri ndiro guta guru reSouth Greenland, vanhu 3,500, uye chiteshi chayo chikuru chisina aizi munguva yechando. Ngarava dzemabhokisi kaviri pavhiki dzinoita Qaqortoq nzvimbo yekufambisa yedunhu. Chekutanga kunze: maprawn akaomeswa nechando. Zvimiro zvakati wandei zveQaqortoq zvinoyevedza kubva kuma1930s, nguva iyo Charles Lindbergh akauya achitsvaga nzvimbo yetrans-Atlantic yekumisazve mafuta ePan Am. Sezvineiwo, taundi rine makomo richiri kushaya nhandare yendege—rinosvika nendege inonakidza, iri pasi-yechikopokopo yemaminetsi makumi maviri kubva kuNarsarsuaq (cue Wagner's “Ride of the Valkyries,” ndapota), kana rwendo rwemaawa mana muchirimo.
Maodzanyemba Greenland pekugara sarudzo dzinogumira kune imwechete kana maviri padhorobha, uye zvakaringana, asi zvakakwanira vafambi venyika. Maresitorendi anoshandira Danish-accented continental cuisine; zvinoshamisa zvinonaka reindeer uye musk nzombe kazhinji pane menyu, uye dzimwe nguva whale nyama (yakanyanya kuonda kupfuura zvandinotarisira, asiwo yakapfuma). Kuzadzisa zvishuwo zvitsva zvekushanya hurumende iri kukwira pachikoro nechikoro chekugamuchira vaenzi muNarsaq, uko vanopinda vanogona kudzidza sevabiki vemangwana, vabiki, mabhucha, vanomirira uye vanogamuchira hotera pamberi.
Mamiriro ekunze aive akanaka panguva yekushanya kwangu - matenga ebhuruu akachena, achidziya zvakakwana kufamba nebhurugwa - zvichibvumira kuchinjika kwakanyanya nekuona kwangu nzvimbo. Zviri nyore kujoinha rwendo rwezuva nechikepe kubva kuQaqortoq kuenda kuUpernaviarsuk, nzvimbo yemaeka maviri nehafu yekutsvagisa zvekurima uko chirimwa chezhizha chaisanganisira miriwo yemashizha, midzi uye yemuchinjiko. Tichienderera mberi neEinars Fjord takasvika muIgaliku, musha une zvisaririra zvomusha weNorse wakapoteredzwa nedzimba dzinofara. Isu takasvetukira pamatongo eHvalsey, saiti Greenlanders iri kutsvaga chinzvimbo cheUNESCO. Madziro ematombo echechi yayo anotanga kumakore ekuma1100 ane zvishoma.
Ndisati ndabva kuGreenland ndakasangana neaimbove shamwari yeFrance Jacky Simoud. Mugari kubvira 1976, ndiye jacky-we-all-trades muNarsarsuaq, achimhanyisa cafe yedhorobha, hostel uye kambani yekupfeka, zvese zviri pasi pezita reBlue Ice. Anoitawo nzendo dzechikepe kuenda kuQooroq Fjord iri padyo, uko chando chinoburitsa matani mazana maviri echando pazuva.
“Ndirimwe remadiki,” akadaro Simoud, achifambisa igwa rake rakashata nomunzvimbo ine zvimbambaira ine mazaya echando akananga kuzasi kweaizi. “Chikuru chinobudisa matani mamiriyoni makumi maviri [echando] pazuva.” Paakanga afambisa mota padhuze nepaibvumirwa chando chinoputika, Simoud akavhara injini uye mumwe wevashandi vake akadira martinis pamusoro pemaaizi matsva echando. Nenzira isingadzivisiki, pakati perunyararo rwakanyanya, nhaurirano yakachinjira kukudziya kwepasi.
“Chando chakanaka ichando chinotonhora,” Simoud akatsanangura kudaro. "Denga rakajeka, sinou yakasimba uye tinogona kutenderera fjord nemoiri yechando kana kunyange motokari. Asi mana ekupedzisira echando mashanu anga achidziya. Kana kuti kuchinja kudziya nekutonhorwa.”
Kumusoro nomurwizi, aizi yaipenya pakati pemakomo segumbeze remhute risingaonekwi apo makungwa akanga akatipoteredza achimonyoroka nokutsemuka nezuva. Nezvekunyanyisa kwayo, kushanyira Greenland rwakanga rwuri rwendo rwunoshungurudza kuenda kumharadzano yenguva yakapfuura yepasi redu neramangwana rayo.
Handigoni kutaura nokuda kwechando. Asi ndinogona kutaura kuti zhizha rakanaka izhizha reGreenland.
Kana Iwe Enda
Greenland ine nhandare dzendege nhatu dzepasi rose. Pamusoro peNuuk neNarsarsuaq, kune Kangerlussuaq, iri pakati peNuuk neIlulissat (nzvimbo yekupinda yekushanya Disko Bay, nzvimbo huru yekushanya ine glacier yakakura, icebergs uye imbwa-sledding). Air Greenland inobhururuka kakawanda pasvondo kuenda kunhandare dzendege kubva kuCopenhagen, gore rose. Muzhizha, kune ndege kubva kuIceland kuenda kuNuuk uye dzimwe nzvimbo paIcelandair neAir Iceland. Inowanikwa mukupera kwaChivabvu kusvika kutanga kwaGunyana, nzira dzeIceland hadzina kudhura pane kubhururuka neCopenhagen, uye chengetedza anenge maawa gumi nemaviri munguva yekufamba kubva kuUS.
Vashanyi vezhizha vanogona kutanga kufamba, kayaking uye fjord cruises; Kuredza kwetrout nesalmon kunonzi kwakanakisa. Munguva yechando, imbwa-sledding, snowmobiling uye skiing pamusoro rondedzero yezviitiko, kazhinji inomisikidzwa kuseri kwezviedza zvekuchamhembe. Vazhinji vanoshanya, vakaita seScantours, hotera yepasuru uye mari yendege asi vanotengesa nzendo dzemasikati nela carte zvichienderana nemamiriro ekunze. Rwendo rwemazuva masere rweScantours kuenda kuNarsarsuaq neNarsaq rwuri mutengo wemadhora zviuru zviviri nemazana mapfumbamwe nemakumi mapfumbamwe nemazana maviri kusanganisira nemhepo inobva kuIceland, kana madhora zviuru zvitatu nemazana manomwe nemakumi matanhatu nemasere kubva kuCopenhagen. Kambani yaJacky Simoud yakanyatsobatanidzwa yeBlue Ice inyanzvi pakuunganidza nzendo nemapakeji kubva pachigadziko chake muNarsarsuaq.
Nemhaka yokudhura kukuru kwokubva mutaundi netaundi muGreenland—akawanda awo anosvikwa bedzi neherikoputa kana kuti magwa—ngarava dzezvikepe dzinogona kuva nzira inobudirira zvikuru yokufamba nayo. Iyo huru kambani inopa Greenland mafambiro ndeye Hurtigruten. Kufamba kwemazuva masere kwezhizha 2010 kunotangira pamadhora mazana mana nemakumi mashanu kana akabhuka panosvika Gunyana 4500.
David Swanson ndiye Anopa Mupepeti kuNational Geographic Traveler uye anonyora iyo "Inotengeka yeCaribbean" ikholamu yeCaribbean Travel & Life magazini.
