Cowboys uye nzou

CHIANG RAI - Pakanga paine chimwe chinhu chinoshamisa chinosimbisa kugara usina mabhureki kumusoro pamusoro penzou ina tonki yeAsia munzvimbo dzekuchamhembe kweThailand. Ndiine makumbo angu akasvinwa kuseri kwenzeve dzake, kuve pamusoro kwaiita kunge kunonyaradza kupfuura kunge kuri pasi. Kubatirira pahuma yedzungu renzou sezvaaigeza murwizi rwaifamba zvishoma nezvishoma kwaifadza. Kuti nzou yangu inonzi Ewong yaive semi-pamudyandigere uye isina kunyanyisa kugadzikana sevamwe vese zvaive zvakanaka neni. Icho chaive chimwe chinhu chekupokana-kufunga kune zvandaitya kuti ndinofanira kushambira kure nechaunga chinofashaira chegrey pleats sezvo zvaisawanzoitika kune dzimwe mhuka dzevechidiki kungozvambarara pasi nekutamba mumvura sezvavaishambidza manheru apfuura guruva.

Kutasva nzou ine makore makumi mana nemasere yaimbova nzou yekutema miti paAnantara Resort Goridhe Triangle yakanzwa sekutora chikamu mune chimwe chinhu chekare pane kungomira zvine mutsindo munzira yevashanyi; sekunge izvo zvaisazove zvakakwana chero zvakadaro.

Vanodzidzisa ndidzo shamwari dzinotendwa zvikuru nenzou netsika dzadzo, hupenyu hwakarangwa, uye hunhu hwemitauro zvakadzokera kumashure mazana emakore.

"Mahouts setsika pamwe ndizvo zvakandiunza pano pakutanga," akadaro John Roberts, akaberekerwa kuDevon, director wenzou panzvimbo iyi, "Mararamire aive akavapoteredza ndiwo akanyanya kundikwezva senzou dzacho."

Roberts anotaura nemhepo yekuprofita yemunhu anthropologist asi kuda kwemumiriri. "Vafambisi ndivo chaivo vafudzi vemombe vekumabvazuva, nekuti vane tsika uye nemararamiro akasiyana," akadaro, "Iri kufa."

Kuzvipira kweupenyu hwese
Nzvimbo yeAnantara muChiang Rai yakavakirwa pamahombekombe erwizi Sob Ruak, rwizi rweMekong rwakafuma, runoumba muganho pakati peThailand neBurma. Ichimisa rwendo rwangu rwekufambisa mumaawa ekutanga emambakwedza, mhute yakafukidza nzvimbo yemahara mazana matatu, iyo, semuenzi, yaive seri kweseri kwako uye nzendo chaidzo dzekufamba nzou.

Rimwe zuva pakamba rakatanga nevanodzidzisa panguva yekufamba kwemambakwedza kunotora nzou. Zvino pamwe chete takafamba tichidzika kumucheto kwerwizi kunonyatso kugeza mhuka mune yaive surreal choreography. Nzou dzakamhanya-mhanya apo vafundisi vadzo vachikwesha guruva nerudo uye nekutsva kubva paganda ravo rakakwasharara, rakaunyana, isu vashanyi takabatirira hupenyu hunodiwa. Kusafanana nesu, vafambisi vakatsigirwa nzou kuita sekunge dzakavezwa panzvimbo.

Idzo nzou dzakatamba dzichitamba dzakakura mvura zhinji mumategi adzo ndokuzosvipa mutoro wadzo semafuta makuru.

Mumwe mudiki mahout, K. Khanchai (Khan) Yodlee achitamba akabata mukono wenzou yake yemakore mapfumbamwe yenzou, Pepsi, mhuka yaakasimudza kubvira achiri mudiki.

"Pepsi mukomana, asi ane hunhu hwakanaka uye anofara kwazvo," akadaro Khan, "Nzou yangu yakaita semwana, mukoma kana nhengo yemhuri yangu. Tiri pamwe kubva pakutanga, uye ndichava naye nokusingaperi.

Khan, anobva kuSurin, anobva kumhuri inoteedzera tsika dzayo dzekudzidzisa kumashure kumarudzi. Sekuru vake-sekuru vakapfuya nzou uye chizvarwa chababa vake vaishandisa mumhemberero, kugadza, uye zviitiko zvemagariro.

Zuva pakati pemakombi
Kana uku kwaive kuravira kwekuva mukomana wemombe zvaibvumwa kuva munyoro asi wakasununguka kuyedza kwandiri. Hafu-bofu, Ewong akambotakura matanda mukati memasango pakati peBurma neThailand. Shamwari dzangu dzekuCanada dzekufamba - vasina mombe dzemombe asi ivo vane hupenyu hwakawanda parwendo rwavo - vakatasva nzou dzevechidiki zvikuru Bow, Makam, naLanna. Idzo nzou dzakauya kumusasa mushure mekugara mumigwagwa yeBangkok, Chiang Mai, kana Pataya. Ivo vaikwenya-rovera pamatombo kana kutsauka kubva kukosi kunotora nhungirwa dzinonakidza dzemishenjere kana imwe greenery.

Pamusasa takadzidza mimwe yemirairo makumi manomwe yekunyama inoshandiswa nevaidzidzisa. "Sei" zvaireva kumira, nepo "Pai" yaienda kumberi. "Mepu Lung" waive murairo wekugara pasi, apo nzou yaidzikisa musoro wayo payainzi "Tak Lung."

Isu takadzidziswa nzira dzakasiyana dzekukwirisa uye kudzika, kungave kubva kudivi kana kushamisika kufamba kwekusundidzirwa pamusoro pemhino yake. Zvinotoshamisa kuti hazvina kutora nguva kuti kujairira hupenyu kubva kumusoro. Imwe yeshamwari dzangu dzepa facebook yakatoti, "mota yakanaka," pamufananidzo wenzou yangu.

Chirongwa chekudzidzisa shasha chakazove chinofanana nenzvimbo yekuchengetedza yekuchengetedza iyo yakavambwa muna 2003. Musasa wenzou wakaita kunge wakabatana nenzvimbo yakasvibirira. Chirongwa ichi chakatanga nenzou ina dzakahayiwa mukubatana pamwe nehurumende inoitwa Thai Elephant Conservation Center. Asi iyo nzvimbo yekutandarira munguva pfupi yakatanga kununura nzou kubva mumigwagwa yenzvimbo huru dzemadhorobha.

Dzinopfuura nzou makumi matatu uye zvakapetwa huwandu uhu hwevanodzidzisa nemhuri dzavo izvozvi vanogara munzvimbo dzeAnantara nhasi.

Mahouts hupenyu hunobva kumadzinza
"Zvakanditorera makore akati wandei kuti ndizive Chao Gui," akadaro Roberts, "Kune vanhu ava, iko kushevedzwa chaiko kweboka redzinza ravo. Vanodzidzisa kubva kuSurin zvese zvine chekuita netsika dzavo, dzinovakirwa pakuchengeta nzou. ”

Mazana emakore apfuura, vazukuru vevamwe vafambi vemazuva ano vekuThai vanonzi vaifudza nzou dzemusango. Sa sekuru vaKhan, aive aya mombe dzemhando dzakasiyana dzakadzidzisa nzou uye pamwe vakaenderera mberi nekugadzira nzira dzekucheka matanda dzenyika.

Tsika yemufundisi yekugara padivi nedivi nenzou yakapfuudzwa kubva kune chimwe chizvarwa kuenda kune chinotevera. Vafambisi vacho vakazopedzisira vava boka remagariro uye rinototaura mitauro yavo.

Zvese zvinhu zvakachinja mushure ma1989. Makanga muri mugore irero apo Thailand yakatanga kurambidzwa kwenzou dzinotema matanda, uye chizvarwa chevaidzidzisa chakangoerekana chava kushaya basa. Mhuka uye vafambi vadzo vakadzokera kune yaimbove nzara-inoshamwaridzika yenzou yeSurin, asi kunetseka pakuita raramo kwavari kwakakonzera kuti vazhinji vavo vapedzisire mumigwagwa ine ruzha yeBangkok ichichaja vashanyi chiratidzo chekutora mifananidzo nenzou kana kuva izvo zvinodyisa mhuka dzine nzara nzimbe kana nhungirwa dzemishenjere.

"Mumigwagwa, mumwe mutyairi anotyaira nzou apo vamwe vaviri vakachaja vashanyi 20 kana 30 bah kuti vape chikafu, kana 10 kana 20 baht yemufananidzo," Anantara Elephant Camp maneja K. Prakorn (Seng) Saejaw akandiudza, "Ivo vangangogara mumigwagwa kusvika pakati pehusiku, uye izvi hazvina kuvanakira. ”

Mitemo ichangoburwa yakaunzwa kuranga kudyiswa kwenzou neruzhinji, nemapoka anofarira achimanikidza kudzikiswa kwemaawa avo ekushanda, kuisirwa zvinovaka muviri, uye kunyangwe makore ekumanikidza emhuka. Roberts, zvakadaro, anochema chema kuti kushomeka kushoma padanho rekuchengetedzwa kwemutemo kwakasanganiswa nekudiwa kwevanodzidzisa kuita mari kunosiya tariro shoma yekubudirira kwechero mutemo.

Kutsvaga imwe mari
Nekuda kwekurambidzwa, hurumende inotungamirwa neThai Elephant Conservation Center yakatanga kutsvaga imwe mari yevanodzidzisa, izvo nhasi zvinosanganisira orchestra yenzou, nzou dzinopenda, kana vamwe vanoratidzira hunyanzvi hwekucheka matanda.

Nzvimbo yeAnantara yakagadzira iyo Golden Triangle Asia Elephant Foundation iyo inopa pekugara kune nzou. Ivo vafambisi vane rombo rakakwana kuzviita pano zvakare vanobatsirwa nenzira nyowani yekuita raramo sezvo ivo vachipa iyo yekudzidzira uye nzou yekukwira ruzivo kune vashanyi vehotera.

"Yakanga iri surreal zvachose," mudiwa Lori Anders Grubsztajn akati mushure mezuva rekudzidzira mahout pahotera, "Mhuka dzaive dzakakura chose, asi dzakapfava. Ivo vane vhudzi rakanyanya kupfuura zvandaifunga kuti vaizove, uye vhudzi ravo rakanyanya kutonhora.

"Asi takadanana, uye takatsvodana tisati taenda."