Cu Chi tunnels imwe yevanonyanya kufarirwa nevashanyi veVietnam

HO CHI MINH GUTA, Vietnam - Ruzha rwepfuti dzinobaya mweya wakasviba wesango. Ini ndiri pamaoko angu nemabvi, ndichikambaira nemurima repasi pevhu, ndichidikitira munzvimbo dzandaisaziva kuti ndaive nedikita gland.

“Ramba uchiuya! Ramba uchiuya! ” inokurudzira murume anodhakwa weVietnam mune aneta, achindisimudzira kumberi.

Tiri mune inozivikanwa Cu Chi tunnels, iyo Viet Cong network yeyakavanzika yepasi pevhu nzira yakaratidza kuva mumwe mukuru munzwa kudivi remauto eAmerica munguva yeVietnam Hondo.

Iyo claustrophobic tunnel system - yakacherwa nemaoko - pane imwe nguva yaiyera kupfuura mamaira zana nemakumi maviri, ichibva pamuganhu weCambodian kuenda kumucheto kwenzvimbo yaive Saigon. Guta chairo, dandemutande renzira dzaive kumusha kune vagari vemunharaunda vachitsvaga pekuhwanda kubva kubhomba, pamwe nezviuru zveViet Cong, maNorth Vietnam Army-akatsigira magandanga akarwisa maSouth Vietnamese nemauto eUS. Pano, chaipo pasi pebhutsu dzeAmerican GIs, ndipo pakadya vaViet Cong, vakavata, vakahwanda uye vakatanga kuuraya kunoshamisa.

Ndipowo panosarudzwa boka remasoja eAmerica - aka tunnel makonzo - anoita mune unofanirwa kuve unotyisa mutambo wepasirese wekuhwanda nekutsvaga. Aya makonzo emumwenje akapinza nzira yavo kuburikidza nenzira dzakamanikana, dzakasviba, kuyedza kutsvaga muvengi muvengi asati avawana. Chinhu chekufunga nezve ino Chirangaridzo Zuva.

Nezvikonzero zviri pachena, kwete mazhinji evarwi vaida kutsika mumabhooby-musungo-akazadza gehena maburi. Asi mazuva ano, iyo Cu Chi tunnels ndeimwe yevanonyanya kufarirwa nevashanyi veVietnam. Vamwe vashanyi vanosvika chiuru vanomhanyira zuva nezuva kunzvimbo iyi, iri mamaira makumi mashanu nemashanu kubva kudhorobha Ho Ho Minh Guta (yaimbove Saigon).

Zvikamu zvidiki zvipfupi zvematanera zvinowanikwa nhasi. Vakawedzeredzwa zvishoma kuti vagone mitumbi yakakura kwazvo yekuMadokero, asi izvo hazvina kunditadzisa kunetseka kuti ndivhime zvakaringana kuitira kuti musana wangu usatsve pamusoro padenga remarara.

"Mune nyoka muno here?" Ini ndinobvunza mutungamiri wangu weVietnamese, uyo anoita kunge akasununguka mune idzi dzimba dzakasekwa dzakasekwa.

"Kwete futi," anopindura achinyemwerera, zvichiteverwa nemamwe maround ekuti "Ramba uchiuya!"

Vashanyi vanogona kuita nzira yavo kuburikidza nezvikamu zvitatu zvemataneti anotangira pamamita zana nemakumi mashanu nemazana matanhatu pakureba. Kana iwe uri claustrophobic kana uine rakashata musana kana mabvi, iwe zvirinani zvirinani kugara pamusoro pevhu - zvirinani kana zvasvika kune marefu tunnel.

Uye usazvidya moyo: Pane zvakawanda zvekuona pamusoro pevhu. Chiratidziro chezvinhu zvinotyisa zvakavanzwa pasi pemasuwo musango pasi, makomba akasiyiwa nemabhomba akadonhedzwa kubva kuB-52s, akasiya matangi eUS aunogona kukwira mukati, mannequins emauto eNorth Vietnam neViet Cong magandanga - zvakaita seDisneyland yeRufu. uye Kuparadza.

Chiitiko chose chakandipa pfungwa iri nani yezvaifamba nemasoja eAmerica. Chinhu chimwe chete kumira pamberi peyeuchidzo yehondo kana chivakwa. ndeimwe yekudzika pasi uye yakasviba mumatanho echirevo, kunyanya nezwi rinotyisa repfuti dzekurwa dzichipfura kure.

"Kana iwe uchida kupfura pfuti - AK-47 kana M16 - unogona kuzviita… $ 13 kana $ 14 inotenga mabara gumi," anodaro Nguyen Cao Van, mutungamiri wangu wepamusoro-pasi kuCu Chi. Anowedzera kuti, “Kana usingade kupfura, unogona kutenga ice cream panext door.”

Kunge Disneyland.

Babamunini vaNguyen vaive colonel wemauto eSouth Vietnamese. Mushure mekunge hondo yapera muna 1975, babamunini vake vakapedza makore manomwe mukamu yekudzidzisazve.

"Uye aikurumidza kudzidza," Nguyen anodaro.

Mukadzi waNguyen anobva kuNorth Vietnam. Vakasunga pfumo muna 2005. Michato pakati pevanhu vanobva kuchamhembe nekumaodzanyemba yakave yakajairika mumakore mashoma apfuura, Nguyen anodaro, iko zvino kuvenga pakati pehafu dzenyika dzakazotanga kufa.

Ndisati ndasvika kuVietnam, ndanga ndave nekakutya kuti ndingangosangana neruvengo runoramba ruripo pamusoro peHondo yeAmerica, sezvavanodaidza. Kana iwe ukapomba bhomba nyika uye uchimwaya nzvimbo yayo neAgent Orange, vanhu vanogona kubata chigumbu.

Asi iyo chete yekukweretesa iyi Yank kwaive kubva kune vanonyanya kushambadzira veVietnam vatengesi mumigwagwa vanoshuvira kutengesa mbiya yavo yemishenjere uye dzimwe tchotchkes.

"Zvakaitika zvakaitika," Nguyen anodaro, achiwedzera kuti vanhu vazhinji muVietnam vadiki kwazvo kuti varege kurangarira hondo. Vamwe mamirioni makumi mashanu nemashanu evagari venyika miriyoni makumi masere nemasere vagari vakaberekwa mushure mekudonha kweSaigon muna 55.

"Hatitarise kune zvakapfuura," anodaro. "Tinotarisira ramangwana."