Dai wanga uri mutyairi wechikwata chekutanga cheTWA aifamba kubva kuWashington, DC, kuenda kuSan Francisco, California, muna Gumiguru 1970, menyu yako yaiverengwa semabiko aMambo weZuva pane kudya kwakabikwa kare kunopisa muovheni.
Iwe unogona kunge wakatanga ne crepe farcie aux fruit de mer, ine lobster, shrimp, crabmeat, uye scallops mumuto wekrimu, bhotela, uye sherry, ichiteverwa neveal Orloff "yakazara ne truffles." Mushure maizvozvi, pakanga pane cheeses, Grand Marnier gâteau, michero yakakanyiwa ne kirsch, uye mushure mekudya kwemanheru. TWA yaitarisira kuti chiitiko ichi chingave chisingakanganwike chakatopa hamvuropu yakakosha kuti utumire menyu kune vanhu vekumba.
Hongu, akanga ari mazuva iwayo. Vakwiri vaiwanzomira mudzimba dzokudyira dzakaparadzana, matafura aiiswa machira akachena, uye taigona kuvimbwa nemicheka. Cuisine yakaramba iri siginicha yendege yekubatsira, uye yanga isati yave nzvimbo ye (chaiyo) yebhinzi counters. (Usamborangarira kuti tikiti rekirasi yehupfumi muna 1970 raidhura madhora mazana matatu erwendo rwekudzoka, kana $300 yakagadziridzwa kukwira kwemitengo.)
Muna 1978 zvose zvakachinja. De-regulation hit uye Civil Aeronautics Board yakapa hutongi pamusoro pekuisa mari dzendege. Kekutanga, makambani endege aifanira kukwikwidza vafambi nemitengo yakaderera uye zvirongwa zvekuvimbika. Makwikwi akacheka mibairo yepurofiti, achiisa kudzvanya kune vatakuri izvo zvakaramba zvichienderera kusvika kurwisa kwemagandanga kwa2001 kwashandura dambudziko kuita dambudziko.
Vachitambura nekurasikirwa nemari yakawanda uye kutsvaga kumwe kuderedzwa, vendege vakatanga kunanga chikafu. Nguva pfupi yapfuura 9/11, American Airlines neTWA vakamira kugovera chikafu mumakabhini avo makuru mundege dzepamba, ichiteverwa nechero mutakuri weUS. Zvinoenderana nepfungwa, yaive hurongwa hwendege uye mutengo waitengesa matikiti - kwete chikafu chayo.
Nhasi, pakati pevashanu vanonzi vatakuri venhaka yeUS, Continental chete ndiyo ichiri kupa chikafu chekudya mundege munzira dzepamba, anachronism iyo ndege yakavaka mushandirapamwe wese wekushambadzira.
Asi kune simba idzva mumatenga nhasi. Sezvo vafambi vanoda mari yavo yakawanda (kunyanya muhupfumi uhwu), mujaho uri kuda kutora mutengi asingabhadhare mukirasi yekutanga uye yebhizinesi nekukwidza zvinhu kumberi kwendege.
Lauri Curtis, mutevedzeri wemutungamiri wevashandi vekuAmerican Airlines, anoti nezvendege dzekumba, "Tiri kushandisa madhora mashoma atinodyara mukamuri yepamusoro. Muimba huru, tinotarisa zviri nyore. "
Muchokwadi, kunyangwe vatakuri veUS vari kunetseka vakacheka mari yavo pakudya kubva pamadhora mazana mashanu nemakumi mapfumbamwe nemakumi mapfumbamwe muna 5.92 kusvika pamadhora mazana matatu nemazana matatu nepfumbamwe (1992) pamunhu wese (mumacabins ese) muna 3.39, sekureva kwe Bureau of Transportation Statistics, vari kushandura zvekutanga zvakare. Vatakuri venhaka vakawedzera kushandiswa kwechikafu nezvikamu zvina kubva muzana kubva muna 2006 kusvika 2007 - kunyangwe vainetsekana nekudzikisa mitengo pamberi pekukwira kwemitengo yemafuta.
Kukurudzira kunzwisiswa kuri kuramba kuchiitika, ndege zhinji dzemumba dziri kutora matanho kubva kune vatakuri vekunze, avo vakanyoresa nerubatsiro rwemazita akashinga kuronga chikafu.
Kwemakore American yaivimba neSouthwestern cuisine chef Stephan Pyles nemumwe wake wekuDallas Dean Kutya kuronga mamenu emundege. Nguva pfupi yadarika, United yakatanga kushanda naCharlie Trotter kugadzira chikafu chine hutano chine twist yepasirese, sehowa hwemusango risotto nehuku yakarukwa. Zvichakadaro, Delta yakabata hunyanzvi hwaMichelle Bernstein, muridzi waMichy naSra. Martinez maresitorendi muMiami, aine muzvinabhizimusi wehupenyu hwehusiku Rande Gerber achibvunza nezve cocktails uye tenzi sommelier Andrea Robinson achinhonga waini.
Izvo hazvireve kuti Trotter ari mugwara kugadzira risotto yako. Ava vabiki vane mukurumbira vanobatana nemakambani akaita seGate Gourmet - vane makicheni avo vanopa chikafu chevafambi vanosvika miriyoni mazana maviri pagore mumakambani makuru endege epasirese - kushandura zviono zvavo kuita chimwe chinhu chinoshanda 200 tsoka. Icho hachisi chinhu chidiki, tichifunga kuti chikafu chichafamba nemhepo inoputika uye mitsetse yegungano, mhiri kwetara, uye mune angangoita mahovhoni maviri isati yasvika pachigaro chako.
Zvichakadaro, kufunga nezvenzvimbo mumahovhoni epabhodhi uye pamatafura etireyi kunopa rimwe dambudziko. (Pyles's akakurumbira Cowboy bone-mumbabvu ziso, semuenzaniso, aifanira kugadziriswa kusvika kune fillet.)
Wedzera kune aya matambudziko ounyanzvi idi rokuti nokumwe kufungidzira, anodaro Bob Rosar, mukuru mukuru webiki weGate Gourmet North America, “unogona kurasikirwa ne18 muzana yerunako rwako, kana kuti kunzwa kwokuravira, uri muimba yakamanikidzika.” Asi mushure memakumi emakore esayenzi yezvokudya uye kuedza uye kukanganisa, anodaro, kubhadhara kurasikirwa hakucharevi kuwedzera 18 muzana yemunyu nemhiripiri pakudya. “Tiri kushandisa herbs nevhiniga dzakarungwa kugadzira zvinonaka pamatanho ese. Pane kubika huku yako, tinoigocha kana kuigocha.”
Ehe, vashoma vatakuri vekuUS vanogona kupa chikafu pachiyero chakafanana nendege dzepasirese, dzisina kutarisana nematambudziko emari. Vamwe vatakuri, vakadai seAustrian Airlines neGulf Air, vanoisa mashefu muchikepe kuti vagadzirire chikafu mumakirasi ekutanga, uye nendege zhinji, kusanganisira Austrian neSingapore, vanodzidzisa vafambisi vendege se sommeliers.
Vatakuri vepasi rese vanowanzo ratidza mabikirwo ekwavanobva: Abu Dhabi mutakuri Etihad Airways inopa tiramisu yakashongedzwa nekofi yechiArab. Lufthansa inoratidzira dunhu reGerman rinogadzira seFilder-Spitzkraut kabichi uye Bamberger Hörnla mbatatisi. Uye Japan Airlines inoburitsa zvese zvinomira, ichigadzira chikafu chechinyakare mumabiki emupunga chaiwo.
Kunyangwe sezvo ndege dzepamba padzo dzichitangazve mamenu evatyairi vepamberi-ye-ndege, avo vari kumashure vari kuona kuuya kwemamenu ekugadzira ekutenga-pane-bhodhi. Zvakatanga nekutengeswa kwemabhokisi ezvekudya zvekutanga zvapinda mujaho remaoko pakati pevendege kuti vape masangweji matsva, ane hutano nemasaladhi kuvafambi vepamba. United munguva ichangopfuura yakawedzera zvinhu zvakadai seTurkey uye asparagus wrap uye Asian huku saladi, $ 9 imwe neimwe, uye hukama hutsva hweAmerica neBoston Market hunosanganisira Chicken Carver uye Italian yakachekwa saladhi, pakati pevamwe (zvinhu zvose madhora gumi), pakusarudza nzira.
Zvichakadaro, Chef Todd English vakagadzira madhishi akaita sechizi chembudzi uye saladhi yemuriwo ($8) yeimba huru yeDelta. JetBlue, iyo ine mukurumbira inopa chikafu chemahara, yakatomboongorora mukana wekutengesa chikafu mundege dzayo; yakaedza chirongwa chekutenga-pane-bhodhi kutanga kwegore rino.
Maererano neongororo dzemakambani endege, vatakuri vari kutonyanya kufara kubhadhara chimwe chinhu chavanoda kudya pane kuwana chikafu chepachena chavasingadi. Virgin America inonongedza kutsvagurudzo yakaratidza kuti vafambi vehupfumi vanoda kushandisa mari inosvika madhora makumi maviri nerimwe pamabasa epabhodhi (kusanganisira chikafu nekutandara), asi kuti chikafu chinoda kunge chiri chitsva uye majoka emhando yepamusoro.
Kunyangwe hazvo vendege vachisimbirira kuti zvirongwa zvavo zvekutenga-pa-bhodhi zvinonyanya kuitirwa kupa vafambi chiitiko chiri nani mundege, zvakare chikamu chekuedza kukuru kuvaka mari isiri yendege. (Kuvatakuri veUS-based, chete Mhandara America ndiyo yaizokurukura nezvemutengo wepasi wemabhokisi ayo ezvekudya-inenge hafu yemutengo wemadhora matanhatu - uye kusimbisa pundutso yechirongwa chayo chechikafu.)
Asi kuva pakati nepakati hakusi nyore; dzimwe ndege dziri kuona nenzira yakaoma kana dzatora à la carte kure. Gore rapfuura, United yakadonhedza hurongwa hwekuyedza kutenga-pa-bhodhi pakufamba nendege mavhiki mashoma mushure mekuzivisa chirongwa, nekuda kwekuratidzira kwevafambi. Uye US Airways yaifanira kudzosera mutemo wayo wekuchaja zvinwiwa zvinyoro nemvura yemumabhodhoro pandege dzepamba mushure memwedzi minomwe chete.
Kune zvikwata zvavo zvese zveakaunzi uye vane masimba epamusoro-soro, maremu ekutsvagisa, uye vabiki vane mukurumbira, vendege vanoti chinangwa chavo chikuru ndechekutsvaga nzvimbo inotapira apo vafambi vari mupremium vanonakidzwa nesevhisi kuti vabhadhare yakawedzera, vafambi vari murairidzi vanonzwa kugutsikana ( uye pamwe kunyange kufara) neruzivo rwavo, uye vatakuri vanogona kugara vakanyungudika. Kana vakazviwana zvakanaka? Heino tarisiro yekuti chikafu chemumba yendege rimwe zuva zvakare chakanakira kunyora kumba nezvazvo.
