Rumutsiriro rwekushanya muZimbabwe rwuri muVictoria Falls paradhiso

Iyo poster kumadziro yaive nemufananidzo wakasviba uye chena wemurume anotyaira locomotive. "Zimbabwe", yakati, "Africa yeparadhiso". Ndichitambidza mutengesi wematikiti chikwereti cheUS $ 20, ndakamubvunza kuti poster yaive nemakore mangani. "Eri, 1986," akapindura, "Hofisi yekushanyirwa yatipa."

Ndakanga ndichipinda muVictoria Falls, yakatsanangurwa nekudada nemutungamiriri wepano seimwe yezvishamiso zvinomwe zvepasi. Yakanga isiri yekurega. Ndakamira pamusoro pemawere, ndakaona keteni remvura rashanduka chikara chinopenga, simba rinotyisa rezvisikwa pachiyero chevamwari uye hofori.

Mafashama anopopota anodarika zana metres kupinda muZambezi Gorge, ichigadzira mhute dzakatsamwa dzinotenderera uye dzichikwira mudenga zvakanyanya kuti dziwonekwe kubva pamamirimita makumi matatu kubva ipapo. Utsi hunotinhira, sekuzivikanwa kwahwo munzvimbo iyi, hunocheka chiedza chezuva muchinhu chakanakira muraraungu.

Mumwe chizvarwa cheZimbabwe akatendeukira kwandiri ndokuti: “Wauya munyika ine magetsi anogara achicheka, uye asingakwanise kupa vanhu vayo mvura. Asi tarisa. Tine zvakawanda. ”

Pandanga ndichibuda panze, ndakaona boka renzou nomwe dzichiita kusimukira kwemvura dzichitaridzika zvakanaka uye zvine hunyanzvi, husinga tsvete kuboka rakapoteredzwa neshiri chena. Varume vakapfeka yibhayibhu yeyero vakatarisa vachinetseka kubva kure, vachishamisika kana zvisikwa zvakakura izvi zvaizokanganisa panjanji. Vashandi vezvitima muZimbabwe vakazivikanwa kuti vanokumbira ruregerero nekunonoka kwavo nekuda kwenzou dziri pamutsetse.

Nekurima ichiri indasitiri inowirirana, kushanya ipaki rezvehupfumi riri kubatwa nehurumende yemubatanidzwa semunhu ari kunyura. Nekudaro, Zimbabwe yave kuyedza kuumba chimiro chechimiro. Harare ichangobva kuitisa mutambo wejazz, Mamma Mia! yakavhura mune imwe yemitambo - kunyangwe vashoma vanogona kutenga tikiti yemadhora makumi maviri - uye mapepanhau ane misoro yenyaya yakadai seiyi: "Mutungamiriri weHurumende asina kuroora uye haatsvage!"

Nyika ino tarisira kubwinya mukubwinya kweiyo World Cup yenhabvu, kutanga gore kubva zvino muSouth Africa yakavakidzana. Mukombe weWorld Cup pachawo uri kunanga pano muna Mbudzi, apo Fifa inofanirwa kunge ichinamata Mutungamiri Robert Mugabe vasingaisimudzire pamberi pekamera dzenyika. VaMugabe vakatokoka timu yenyika yeBrazil kuti idzike musasa wayo wekudzidzira pano. Zvichida akaona kuti misika yekutengesa yeHarare yaisazogutsa zvido zvevapfumi vakaroora kana vakadzi.

Asi bhodhi revashanyi muZimbabwe - iro richiri kushandisa sirogani iyoyo, “Africa paradhiso” - rine chimwe chezvinhu zvakaomesesa kutengeswa pasi rose. Mugore rapfuura rakatsungirira "PR yakaipa": kurohwa zvine chekuita nezvematongerwo enyika uye kuuraya.

Kana pachave nerumutsiriro, ichatangira kuVictoria Falls, nyika inoyevedza nyeredzi. Kungofanana neCanada ine maonero ari nani eNiagara Falls kupfuura America, saizvozvowo Zimbabwe ine mugove weshumba wechiitiko ichi nekukanganisa Zambia. Vhiki rapera, runyararo rwevashanyi - maAmerican, maEuropean, maJapan nemuturikiri wavo - vakafunga kuti, kunyangwe zvavakange vanzwa nezveZimbabwe, zvaive zvakafanira njodzi.

Vakatsvaga mifananidzo padivi pechiumbwa chihombe chaDavid Livingstone, uyo akawana mapopoma, kana kudaro, akavimbisa kuti vaizotumidzwa zita ramambokadzi wake. Iyo plinth yakanyorwa nemazwi "muongorori" uye "mununuri". Vanhu vakagadzira chifananidzo, chezana remakore muna 1955, vakavimbisa "kuenderera mberi nezvinangwa zvechiKristu zvakakwirira zvakakurudzira David Livingstone muchinangwa chake pano".

Ihotera kwandaigara yakaramba iine dingindira rekuremekedza vatenzi vekare vekoloni. Panogona kuve paive nemufananidzo waVaMugabe pamusoro petafura yepamberi, asi zvikasadaro madziro akange akaputirwa nepfuti dzekuvhima, mifananidzo yaHenry Stanley nemupambi wake, Livingstone, uye zvidhori zvevane miromo mikuru "maAfrica" ​​ane mazita akadai se: "Livingstone inoratidza Nyika Yerima. ” Zvichida pfungwa iyi ndeyekusimbisa vachena vachena kuti hapana chakanyatso shanduka kubva muzana ramakore rechi19 shure kwezvose.

Sedzimwe nzvimbo zhinji dzezororo, Victoria Falls iripo mune inodziya ine yega-iri mukati, kure nenjodzi dzinoparadza nyika, zvichiita kuti zvive zvakaoma kufungidzira chero chakaipa chiri kuitika ipapo. Kune safaris, rwizi cruises, helikopta nendege, twee mashopu uye mashopu ezvitoro uye posh dzimba dzekugara dzinoshumira warthog tenderloin.

Asi iwe haufanire kufamba kure kuti mask iite kutsvedza. Vagadziri vanoona mukushungurudzika kwavo kuti mari dzemari hadzina kurongeka uye makadhi echikwereti haagamuchirwe. Tyaira wakananga kuBulawayo uye unorwiswa nebhodhi rinozivisa kuti: “Cholera chenjera! Shamba maoko ako nesipo kana dota pasi pemvura inoyerera. ” Mutaundi rega rega mune mitsetse mirefu yevanhu vakamira padivi penzira, vachisimudza ruoko rwakaremerwa netariro yekurova lift.

Saka, nei munhu angauya pano ivo vangave vachitamba vakachengeteka mumaguta epasirese ekutanga eSouth Africa? Ndakabvunza mutyairi wetekisi kana, sevamwe zvizvarwa zveZimbabwe, anga afunga zvekutamira kunyika hombe yekumaodzanyemba. "Kwete," akadaro. “South Africa inzvimbo ine mhirizhonga. Mumwe munhu wandaiziva akaenda kubhawa uko, akagogodza doro ndokubayiwa baya. Akaurayiwa nedhora rimwe doro! Hazviendi neni. ”

Akawedzera achiti: “Zvizvarwa zveZimbabwe hazviite izvozvo. Vanhu vemuZimbabwe vanhu vakadzikama uye vane hunyoro. ”

Uye kubva pane zvakaitika kwandiri, zvaive zvakaoma kusawirirana. Kana ikatongwa nemweya une rupo wevanhu vayo vega, Zimbabwe ingangove magineti ekushanya. Asi zvirokwazvo hazvizoburukira kune izvo chete. "Pfungwa yechimwe chinhu chinyoro / chakanyanya kutambura chinhu," yakanyora TS Eliot. Kupfava kwakawanda, asi kutambura kwakawanda futi.